So You Want To Be A Waiter

The best book on waiting tables that you have never read – yet

Cookbook of the day – Book of tarts – form, function and flavor at The City


Book of tarts – form, function and flavor at The City

by Maury Rubin

  • Publisher: William Morrow and Co.; 1st edition (April 1995)
  • ISBN-10: 068812254X
  • ISBN-13: 978-0688122546
  • This slender volume from the owner of The City, a bakery in New York City, will teach you the fine art of tart making. If you’ve never used a simple flan ring, he will show you how to use one. If you go overboard with tart decoration, he will show you a different way – the use of lines and dots and geometrics to make your tarts stand out from the mounds of whipped cream rococco presentations that you sometimes see. sometimes you wonder if a baker is in love with his pasty bag and it’s multiple tips.


    He teaches that less is usually more and he will show you how to get all Frank Lloyd Wright with your piping. His master dough reciple is flawless and he’ll teach you how to handle the dough properly.

    And the recipes! With 40 well-photographed tarts, you’ll find every category of structured tart covered. You won’t find rustic, free-form tarts like tart tatin in the book. The book is restricted to round “single portion” tarts. I especially love the Chocolate Custard infused with Ethiopian Coffee Beans Tart – a sinful disk of contrasting darks – the shell being pitch black and the custard having a matte black appearance. And the taste? Gee, do I need to really tell you?

    He exhorts you to use flan rings as opposed to fluted tart pans. The flan ring is a simple ring of metal with no bottom and every kitchen should have a dozen of them stacked up on a wooden dowel (if only to impress which ever sex you’re trying to impress) . It takes a little practice to gain the skill to use these, but they give you a more refined product. You can use the tart pans with the removable bottoms with these recipes if you like, but you should at least give the flan ring a shot. It’s not that difficult to master and it’s a skill that you can show off to your friends.

    Rubin has done much to change the baking aesthetic and he should be applauded.

    By buying his book. Which doesn’t seem to be in print. But is still available if you look.

    And if you’re ever in NYC…


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