So You Want To Be A Waiter

The best book on waiting tables that you have never read – yet

Daily Archives: July 3, 2009

Cookbook of the day – Let The Flames Begin

Flames1

Let the Flames Begin: Tips, Techniques and Recipes for Real Live Fire Cooking

by Chris Schlesinger and John Willoughby

 

  • Publisher: W. W. Norton & Co.; Reissue edition (8 Aug 2003)  
  • ISBN-10: 0393050874
  • ISBN-13: 978-0393050875
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    Chris Schlesinger is the chef/owner of the East Coast Grill in Cambridge Mass. and three other restaurants and is also a food author with several other books under his belt and John Willoughby is executive editor of Gourmet magazine.  This book  is a followup to the previous grilling books, The Thrill of the Grill and License to Grill, and is a great overview of the art of grilling and smoking and a wide-ranging selection of well-chosen recipes.

     From making “hobo packs” to prosciutto-stuffed grilled chicken tenderloins with fresh figs and pesto butter, both traditionalists and internationalists can find flavorful dishes to prepare.

    You get a good primer on the various grilling and smoking techniques and it’s obvious that both authors are aficionados of grilling wherever they encounter it, whether it be in South Carolina or the streets of Kingston.

    In this prime grilling season, I hope that you will consider picking up the book.

    BTW, I have a first edition of this book. This has a different cover. You might find it with this cover:

    Flames

    Here are your authors:

    cs_home_01

    prar01_willoughby212

    Portrait of John Willoughby by Romulo Yanes

    A 4th of July gift to you – my secret dry rub recipe

    I don’t give this out to just anyone.

    First of all, this dry rub is perfect for pulled pork (Boston Butt or shoulder, or even whole pig), but it’s also good on pork tenderloin, ribs and chicken. You can even do a blackened steak with this and it’s good for brisket as well. Due to the high sugar content, it’s going to give you a black bark (the crunchy outside of the meat). But don’t worry – it might look “burned” but it will add to the flavor. In fact, a black bark is the key to an authentic Memphis BBQ.

    If you are doing a Boston Butt or shoulder, here’s a secret – rub the meat with palm sugar first. Palm sugar is an ingredient used in Thai and Vietnamese cooking. Don’t use dried palm sugar, use the type in a jar that has a coating of oil over it, like this:palm_sugar

     

     

     

     

     

     

    Wash your hands really well and then spoon some out and put it in your hand. Make sure you get some of the oil on it as well. The palm sugar itself will be a little hard and grainy, but it will start to melt from the heat of your hand and the oil. Give the pork a good coating. If you don’t have any palm sugar (this is something you should have in your pantry at all times), molasses, Karo, maple syrup (the real thing, not fake pancake syrup) or a light coat of honey will do.

    Then coat the whole meat with the rub, making sure to get it good and covered, top, bottom and sides. The heavier you can coat it, the thicker and crunchier the bark will be. If you don’t want a lot of bark, then an light, even coat will do.

    And now for the rub:

    There are no quantities given. This is one of those things that you’ll eyeball. However, make sure you make brown sugar is the biggest ingredient. It forms the base of the rub. I’m going to list the ingredients in rough order of how much you’ll use. Feel free to tinker with it. As a guideline, if you use a cup of brown sugar, you’ll be adding a few tablespoons of the other ingredients, with the possible exception of chili powder, cumin and paprika. You want to be generous with those. they are the main flavoring and coloring ingredients.

    You’ll start with brown sugar (you can use either light or dark or a combination of the two), cumin, chili powder and paprika (you’ll want to have liberal amounts of the spices – don’t be shy – you can always add more sugar if you go overboard). The cumin is best if you can get whole cumin seeds and toast them briefly in a hot skillet and then grind them up in a spice mill or coffee grinder that you have reserved for spices).  Then you’ll add smaller amounts of dry mustard (also better if you can toast whole mustard seeds and grind them up), onion powder, freshly ground sea or kosher salt and freshly cracked peppercorn. then you’ll take some dried oregano and dried basil and add them, making sure that you rub them between your fingers to break them up into a powder. You’ll add turmeric (be generous because this helps with the color). Then you add coriander. As with the cumin and mustard seeds, best to toast them and grind them – in fact, you can do them at the same time and grind them together. But if you can’t do that, dried coriander is fine. Then add dried thyme. If you can find the sweet thyme sold in bags for Middle Eastern cooking, you should use it. I like to add it without grinding it because it gives a little extra texture to the rub.

    Make sure you mix it all very well. This helps dry out the brown sugar a little and gets all of the ingredients well incorporated. At this point, it should look brick red. If it’s too orange from the tumeric, add more chili powder. It should be grainy without any clumps. You might want to let it sit out for a day so that the brown sugar dries completely and then remix it, although this isn’t really necessary.

    At this point, I like to take some dried chiles and grind them in the coffee grinder that I have dedicated for spices (you should definitely have one of these around the house, but never use a coffee grinder that you use for coffee). I like to add one chipotle, one habanero, two or three Thai bird peppers and a couple of Japanese chiles. You’ll get a few tablespoons which you’ll set aside. CAUTION: don’t breathe this powder or get it in your eyes. If you get any on your hands, wash them immediately before touching any part of your body. This is very hot. Then I like to break up an ancho chile pepper and a cascabel and grind them, which I add to the reserved ground chile. I then incorporate them into the rub. If you can’t stand spicy food, you can leave these out, or just do ancho chile and cascabel, which aren’t very hot, but keep in mind that if you’re doing pulled pork, the heat from the chiles is going to be mitigated by the long cooking time. Also, you’re free to substitute your favorite dried peppers.

    Finally, the secret ingredient. No, I’m not going to post it publically. If you give me your email address in the comment section and ask me for it, I’ll send it to you. The rub will be just fine without it, but the secret ingredient sets it apart from other more conventional rubs.

    You’ll want to end up with a very grainy, brick red, slightly orangy rub. You can play around with the proportions and there are other things such as adobo or lemon salt that you can add if you want. Feel free to experiment. If you want to avoid a black bark and get the kind of mahogony color that you see from other styles of BBQ or from the pros, leave out the brown sugar and don’t rub it with any sugar product at all. Just make the rub without sugar and put a light coat of it directly on the meat. It will stick due to the moisture that’s already there.

    This rub is good for beefing up commercial BBQ sauces as well. Add a little at a time to taste. It’s also good for adding to apple juice and vinegar as a mop. When you mop a butt or a shoulder during cooking, you build up the bark and add to the depthness of flavor.

    Enjoy the rub and I’ll be interested in any comments from users.

    This is a stock picture of a rub. I like to make sure that I don’t have any clumps of brown sugar or big flakes of spices, except for the thyme that I get from the Middle Eastern market. I make sure that I pulverize any oregano and basil leaves into a powder by rubbing it between my fingers. However, this is close to the color that you want. Just make sure that you mix it up better so that you get very fine granules.

    dry rub (converted)

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     And this is the result:

    BBQ

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

    Doesn’t that just make your mouth water? My chef at work gives this two thumbs up.

    Heading into the weekend – 4th of July

    4th of July is a strange weekend for servers. You never know what’s going to happen. For many restaurants, it’s a total bust. People are planning barbecues, spending time at the lake, traveling to see family and friends, and those restaurants might be normally slower during the summer months because they’re not tourist destinations. For some restaurants, it’s a big deal because they are smack dab in the middle of tourist ground zero.

    For the latter restaurants, it’s easy to get with the program – you just know that you’re going to be busy; you’re going to have lots of multi-generational families, and you’re going to deal with sunburned drunks and low-tipping tourists.

    For the former, it’s trickier. It’s easy to assume that you’re going to be slower than usual, especially when the 4th falls on a weekend as it does this year. However, don’t let your guard down. One thing I’ve noticed over the years is that even with gathering type holidays (Memorial Day, 4th of July, Thanksgiving), a strange phenomenon can happen.  Sometimes you’ll get a late rush the night or two before (or the day after), even as the restaurant has been dead for the rest of the night. and these late tables can oftentimes be larger groups. This happens because of a couple of things – people have been gathered from the airport and they want to get together to visit in a social setting outside the home. Also, people get a little “prep fatigue” from pre-cooking and party preparations and they just want to go out and let someone wait on them. The day after the holiday can also be unexpectedly busier than expected as well. Some people are just plain tired of hosting and cooking and dealing with everything so they want to go out and hand it over to the pros.

    So, if you’re in one of those restaurants that is slower during the summer, don’t let your guard down too much, especially tonight and Sunday night. If you’re looking to make some money, try to be a closer. You’re not guaranteed that you’ll get a late pop, but you never know. If you’re not all that motivated and you want to get a start on your festivities, best to cut your losses early if you can.

    Everyone enjoy your holiday weekend and remember – the cops will be out in force with checkpoints. Don’t be like one of our barbacks is having to do at the moment and be spend your next holiday in jail because of a DUI. Designated drivers all around!

    fireworks