So You Want To Be A Waiter

The best book on waiting tables that you have never read – yet

Tag Archives: barbecuing

New twist on dry rub

So, as I wrote yesterday, I picked up a shitload of Boston Butts because the price was just too good to pass up.

I decided to smoke one of them, even though, by putting it in the Weber at 11:45 am, it wouldn’t be ready until close to midnight.

As I was pondering what kind of dry rub I’d put together (I was out of my normal mix), and, as one hand was raising the Young’s Double Chocolate Stout to my lips and the other was reaching for a bag of French Onion SunChips, I had a flash of genius.

What if I took a handful of SunChips and ground them into dust in my spice grinder and use that as the base for my rub instead of brown sugar? And how about just rubbing it on the pork instead of using a carrier like palm sugar or molasses?

So I set to work putting together the new rub. I only made enough for one butt so I only needed about 5 chips. I ground them up in the ole Krups coffee grinder that I keep for such purposes. I then took  2 dried chipotles and 1 dried cascobel pepper and ground them as well. I added some cumin, chili powder, turmeric, paprika, a little garlic powder, some coriander, a few turns of black pepper and some salt that I infused with dried sage from my windowbox about 2 months ago. I then added some of the secret ingredient that I talked about in my post earlier this summer about dried rub.

Patted the pork down with the rub without any sort of carrier. Got it on the Weber by a quarter til noon.

This was the first time ever that I didn’t take a single temperature, either air or meat. I pretty much know now that I can hit it with lots of heat upfront as long as I throw a few wood chips on the coals every hour or so. I had 2 hickory chunks to start. After about an hour, I threw some small alder chips directly on the coals and continued to do that every hour. When I augmented the fire the first time after about 2 hours, I did about a third of a chimney starter with 2 more chunks of hickory. That lasted another hour or so, at which point I did 3/4s of a chimney and let it rock for another couple of hours.

After about 5 hours in, smoke doesn’t really add a lot more flavor, so I took the butt off and put it on my kitchen oven at 250 and went off and forgot about it. I know that it’s going to be around 1 1/2 – 2 hours per pound, so this 6+ pound Boston Butt was going to take around 12 hours. That didn’t stop me from checking it around 10:30 though, because these hunks of meat are known for being a little unpredictable.

I was looking for around 195 – 200 internal temperature, which is about the perfect pulling temperature. So, how did I check the temperature without a thermometer? Fortunately the Boston Butt has a natural, built-in pop up thermometer.  When the blade bone slides out easily, it’s done. It’s like ribs in that the meat shrinks from the tip of the bone, leaving a convenient handle. I basically try to lift it up using the bone. If the bone doesn’t come out, it’s not ready, unlike ribs, where you actually don’t want to wait quite that long because most people like a little “tug” on the bone when they eat it. For pulled pork, you want the fat to be virtually completely rendered so that the meat almost flakes apart. Some people like to cook it less and serve it sliced like a brisket. If that’s the case, then you only want to go to about 180-185 (the pork won’t “pull” at that temperature).

Anyway, around 10:30, I could tell that it was getting close. It’s a funny thing – if you only go to 180, it will seem kind of hard and dry if you poke it, but as soon as a little runaway fat rendering starts taking place as the temperature rises, it will start to sizzle a little and it gets a little softer. That’s how I knew that it wouldn’t be too long at that point. When I picked it up by the bone, there was a little give but it didn’t slide out. I checked it again at 11:00 and it was about the same. At 11:30, it slid right out. Perfect.

It pulled perfectly and I got a really nice black bark as well. I had a nice smoke ring on most of it as well.

I liked the rub so much that I think I’m going to try a 100% SunChips rub the next time to see how that tastes.

So, if you’re looking for something a little bit different, you might want to try this yourself. I’ve since found out that some people have used BBQ potato chips the same way when cooking chicken. so that might be worth checking out as well.

Oh yeah, forgot. I also took some pale ale and rub and hit the butt 3 times. Normally I would have used a mister or a little mop, but I had neither handy, so I just carefully poured it over the top, being care not to wash off the existing rub.

Cookbook of the day – Let The Flames Begin

Flames1

Let the Flames Begin: Tips, Techniques and Recipes for Real Live Fire Cooking

by Chris Schlesinger and John Willoughby

 

  • Publisher: W. W. Norton & Co.; Reissue edition (8 Aug 2003)  
  • ISBN-10: 0393050874
  • ISBN-13: 978-0393050875
  •  

    Chris Schlesinger is the chef/owner of the East Coast Grill in Cambridge Mass. and three other restaurants and is also a food author with several other books under his belt and John Willoughby is executive editor of Gourmet magazine.  This book  is a followup to the previous grilling books, The Thrill of the Grill and License to Grill, and is a great overview of the art of grilling and smoking and a wide-ranging selection of well-chosen recipes.

     From making “hobo packs” to prosciutto-stuffed grilled chicken tenderloins with fresh figs and pesto butter, both traditionalists and internationalists can find flavorful dishes to prepare.

    You get a good primer on the various grilling and smoking techniques and it’s obvious that both authors are aficionados of grilling wherever they encounter it, whether it be in South Carolina or the streets of Kingston.

    In this prime grilling season, I hope that you will consider picking up the book.

    BTW, I have a first edition of this book. This has a different cover. You might find it with this cover:

    Flames

    Here are your authors:

    cs_home_01

    prar01_willoughby212

    Portrait of John Willoughby by Romulo Yanes

    A 4th of July gift to you – my secret dry rub recipe

    I don’t give this out to just anyone.

    First of all, this dry rub is perfect for pulled pork (Boston Butt or shoulder, or even whole pig), but it’s also good on pork tenderloin, ribs and chicken. You can even do a blackened steak with this and it’s good for brisket as well. Due to the high sugar content, it’s going to give you a black bark (the crunchy outside of the meat). But don’t worry – it might look “burned” but it will add to the flavor. In fact, a black bark is the key to an authentic Memphis BBQ.

    If you are doing a Boston Butt or shoulder, here’s a secret – rub the meat with palm sugar first. Palm sugar is an ingredient used in Thai and Vietnamese cooking. Don’t use dried palm sugar, use the type in a jar that has a coating of oil over it, like this:palm_sugar

     

     

     

     

     

     

    Wash your hands really well and then spoon some out and put it in your hand. Make sure you get some of the oil on it as well. The palm sugar itself will be a little hard and grainy, but it will start to melt from the heat of your hand and the oil. Give the pork a good coating. If you don’t have any palm sugar (this is something you should have in your pantry at all times), molasses, Karo, maple syrup (the real thing, not fake pancake syrup) or a light coat of honey will do.

    Then coat the whole meat with the rub, making sure to get it good and covered, top, bottom and sides. The heavier you can coat it, the thicker and crunchier the bark will be. If you don’t want a lot of bark, then an light, even coat will do.

    And now for the rub:

    There are no quantities given. This is one of those things that you’ll eyeball. However, make sure you make brown sugar is the biggest ingredient. It forms the base of the rub. I’m going to list the ingredients in rough order of how much you’ll use. Feel free to tinker with it. As a guideline, if you use a cup of brown sugar, you’ll be adding a few tablespoons of the other ingredients, with the possible exception of chili powder, cumin and paprika. You want to be generous with those. they are the main flavoring and coloring ingredients.

    You’ll start with brown sugar (you can use either light or dark or a combination of the two), cumin, chili powder and paprika (you’ll want to have liberal amounts of the spices – don’t be shy – you can always add more sugar if you go overboard). The cumin is best if you can get whole cumin seeds and toast them briefly in a hot skillet and then grind them up in a spice mill or coffee grinder that you have reserved for spices).  Then you’ll add smaller amounts of dry mustard (also better if you can toast whole mustard seeds and grind them up), onion powder, freshly ground sea or kosher salt and freshly cracked peppercorn. then you’ll take some dried oregano and dried basil and add them, making sure that you rub them between your fingers to break them up into a powder. You’ll add turmeric (be generous because this helps with the color). Then you add coriander. As with the cumin and mustard seeds, best to toast them and grind them – in fact, you can do them at the same time and grind them together. But if you can’t do that, dried coriander is fine. Then add dried thyme. If you can find the sweet thyme sold in bags for Middle Eastern cooking, you should use it. I like to add it without grinding it because it gives a little extra texture to the rub.

    Make sure you mix it all very well. This helps dry out the brown sugar a little and gets all of the ingredients well incorporated. At this point, it should look brick red. If it’s too orange from the tumeric, add more chili powder. It should be grainy without any clumps. You might want to let it sit out for a day so that the brown sugar dries completely and then remix it, although this isn’t really necessary.

    At this point, I like to take some dried chiles and grind them in the coffee grinder that I have dedicated for spices (you should definitely have one of these around the house, but never use a coffee grinder that you use for coffee). I like to add one chipotle, one habanero, two or three Thai bird peppers and a couple of Japanese chiles. You’ll get a few tablespoons which you’ll set aside. CAUTION: don’t breathe this powder or get it in your eyes. If you get any on your hands, wash them immediately before touching any part of your body. This is very hot. Then I like to break up an ancho chile pepper and a cascabel and grind them, which I add to the reserved ground chile. I then incorporate them into the rub. If you can’t stand spicy food, you can leave these out, or just do ancho chile and cascabel, which aren’t very hot, but keep in mind that if you’re doing pulled pork, the heat from the chiles is going to be mitigated by the long cooking time. Also, you’re free to substitute your favorite dried peppers.

    Finally, the secret ingredient. No, I’m not going to post it publically. If you give me your email address in the comment section and ask me for it, I’ll send it to you. The rub will be just fine without it, but the secret ingredient sets it apart from other more conventional rubs.

    You’ll want to end up with a very grainy, brick red, slightly orangy rub. You can play around with the proportions and there are other things such as adobo or lemon salt that you can add if you want. Feel free to experiment. If you want to avoid a black bark and get the kind of mahogony color that you see from other styles of BBQ or from the pros, leave out the brown sugar and don’t rub it with any sugar product at all. Just make the rub without sugar and put a light coat of it directly on the meat. It will stick due to the moisture that’s already there.

    This rub is good for beefing up commercial BBQ sauces as well. Add a little at a time to taste. It’s also good for adding to apple juice and vinegar as a mop. When you mop a butt or a shoulder during cooking, you build up the bark and add to the depthness of flavor.

    Enjoy the rub and I’ll be interested in any comments from users.

    This is a stock picture of a rub. I like to make sure that I don’t have any clumps of brown sugar or big flakes of spices, except for the thyme that I get from the Middle Eastern market. I make sure that I pulverize any oregano and basil leaves into a powder by rubbing it between my fingers. However, this is close to the color that you want. Just make sure that you mix it up better so that you get very fine granules.

    dry rub (converted)

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     And this is the result:

    BBQ

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

    Doesn’t that just make your mouth water? My chef at work gives this two thumbs up.

    Cookbook of the day – How To Grill

    How To Grill

    How to Grill: The Complete Illustrated Book of Barbecue Techniques

    by Steven Raichlen

     

  • Publisher: Workman Publishing Company; illustrated edition edition (May 1, 2001)
  • ISBN-10: 0761120149
  • ISBN-13: 978-0761120148
  •  

    Perhaps you’ve seen Steven Raichlen on his show Primal Grill. If you liked it, you’ll love this book. Lavishly photographed, with step-by-step photographs, you’ll learn by watching, almost as if he were over your shoulder. You’ll learn how to barbeque a whole pig, how to build different types of fires, how to judge the temperature of the grill using the hand technique (no, you don’t rest your hand on the grill!).  He covers pulled pork (one of my specialties), and does a reasonable job of covering the world’s different grilling techniques, from jerk to churrasco to yakitori. Even experienced grillmeisters can benefit from this colorful book. This isn’t an “artsy” book – the photographs are instructional in nature, not evocative, although there are some shots of grilled meats and veggies that are likely to get your pulse racing.

    It seems appropriate on July 1st to recommend that everyone pick up this book before their 4th of July festivities. You might find something “out-of-the-box” with which to dazzle your guests.

    Raichlen_backyard_sm