Cookbook of the day – Fish Cuisine

Fish Cuisine

by Anton Mosimann

Publisher 10 Speed Press

ISBN 0-89815-543-6

This stylish volume from the Swiss chef Anton Mosimann was first published by Macmillan Press in 1988. It looks as modern today as it did then. Many cookbooks from the late 80s look dated but this is an exception. The platings are fresh and modern (see the cover for a good example) and the recipes are simultaneously classic and progressive. The copy that I have is a reprint from 10 Speed Press. I have no idea what the original edition looks like, so all comments are based on the reprint.

There is a very practical guide to purchasing and processing seafood in the beginning of the book. He actually covers 7 different things that you should look for when choosing fish. and you might actually learn some little things that you might not have consciously realized (like fresh trout should have a “healthy slime” that shouldn’t be removed by the fishmonger).

But Chef Mosimann really shines in his various dishes. His plating displays more of an Asian than a European flair but the recipes themselves have a solid European bearing. From Monkfish with Mustard Sauce to Young Salted Herring in Onion Marinade to Turbot Tartar, you’ll find fresh inspiration from seafood.

Highly recommended.

Cookbook of the day – The Encyclopedia of Fish Cookery

The Encyclopedia of Fish Cookery

by A. J. McClane

Publisher Holt, Rinehart and Winston; 1st edition (1977)

ISBN 10: 0030154316

ISBN 13: 978-0030154317

This book looks all 1977. In fact, it looks all 1967, if you ask me. But looks can be deceiving. Despite the dated look of the copious photographs, this book is an authoritative overview of fish. From taxonomy of species to regional processing, to historical uses, to market availabilities, to recipes from around the world, this book is chock full of useful information. If there’s a fish that you were curious about, whether it’s something as common as salmon or as oddball as ocean pout (a type of eel), you’ll find an entry on it. You’ll learn how to shuck an oyster, make gravlox, make caviar if you have access to fresh sturgeon, and see how the Finns make crucified trout.

There are recipes and preparations from around the world that can liven up any dinner.

However, there are limitations to this book. It couldn’t anticipate the fickle nature of the culinary world. How, for instance, could it possibly anticipate tilapia becoming a trendy fish? How could it predict the overfishing of such species as sea bass?

Which beings me to another little quibble. I personally disagree with some of the characterizations, especially sea bass. How can sea bass be considered “bland”?  I guess I understand where he’s coming from, since the flesh is bone white and not “meaty”, but how can the savory and buttery nature of its flesh be denied? Also, there’s no mention of Patagonian Toothfish, which is what you usually get when you order “Chilean Sea Bass”.

Despite these quibbles, this is a very useful volume for the waiter who wants to know everything he or she can about the seafood on their menu. If you have this book, you might even know more about it than your chef.

I see this book in used bookstores all of the time and I picked it up yesterday for the staggering sum of $2.00 (and a First Edition to boot!). I’ve passed up a few opportunities to buy it over the years because of the dated look (I sometimes quickly page through a book to get a feel for it, and this volume just looked a bit long-in-the-tooth). If you find it, by all means, pick it up, if only to see a picture of the salt collecting facilities in Portugal used to make salted cod.

Patagonian Toothfish (Chilean Sea Bass)